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Sunday, 19 January 2014

My Camino de Santiago (Burgos)

Meanwhile back on Camino......I was in the city of Burgos, approximately one third of the way into my walk across northern Spain. After walking every day for nearly two weeks, It was time for a rest. So tomorrow I would take a day off to explore the city.

The first evening I went to the pilgrims mass in the Cathedral which I enjoyed even though I couldn't understand most of it as it was spoken in Spanish (they do that a lot in Spain). A group of us then went out for a meal in a delightful little restaurant which was full of locals, a good sign. The food was fantastic although the pricing was a bit weird. Henry had steak and chips and Pablo had steak, two eggs and chips, both meals cost exactly the same.




After breakfast the following morning a few of us moved to a different hostel as the rules only allow you to spend one night in a particular albergue unless you are ill. We then went to visit the Cathedral as tourists, gaining admission for half price by showing our peregrinos passports.





Burgos Cathedral of Santa Maria is one of the most beautiful of Spain's many cathedrals according to the guide book and I can testify to this being true, it is absolutely magnificent. It is the second largest cathedral in the country, built in the thirteenth century in the gothic style. Over the centuries it has been embellished by many master builders from all over europe, combining several different styles. The cathedral is a designated Unesco world heritage site set amongst bustling medieval streets, now full of designer shops. Inside it is full of a wealth of art treasures, religious icons and artefacts. Situated in the main transept crossing under the roof lantern lies El Cid and his wife.




Count Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar or 'El Cid' meaning 'The Lord' a title given to him by the muslim conquerers out of respect, is the national hero of Spain. You may remember him from the film starring Charlton Heston (the national hero of the American gun Lobby). He was born in a small village near Burgos but brought up in the city (That's El Cid, not Charlton Heston).





He grew up to be the commander-in-chief of the army of King Sancho and spent his life fighting against (and sometimes for) the invading Moors and other Spanish Kings. He died in Valencia in 1099 after recovering the city from the Moors. Legend (and the film) has it that after his death he was dressed in his armour and strapped to his trusty horse Babieca then sent out to lead a cavalry charge against the Moors and defeating them.



Later we bought some bread, cheese and sausage which we ate as a picnic in a small park alongside of the river. Dressed as we were in our walking clothes I felt like a bit of a tramp amongst the local people who were well dressed in their designer clothing. Still tomorrow we will be back on the camino amongst our own kind.


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