My Camino de Santiago - An Oasis in Spain

After a very simple peregrinos dinner that included garlic soup with soggy bread floating in it I went to my bunk and slept like a log. The following morning I decided to forego the breakfast on offer as it consisted only of cafe con leche and sugary cakes. Outside in the courtyard I brewed up some tea on my little gas stove which I shared with Pablo, while we waited for Jacques who succumbed to the temptation for sugar. A decision that he later regretted when they charged him five euros for this meagre offering.

Our destination for today is the small town of Shahagun the site of a battle in the winter of 1808 during Sir John Moores retreat to Corunna in the Peninsula campaign when the British 15th Light Dragoons saw off two regiments of French cavalry. It was a short walk of only twelve kilometres which hopefully would allow my aching leg to rest and heal. It was also roughly the half way point of the Camino Frances.

A few kilometres into our stroll we came across what seemed like an oasis in the middle of this vast flat plain. A small private hostel run by a German woman and her Spanish husband who she met several years earlier whilst walking the Camino herself. It was spotlessly clean and delightfully decorated in the southern German style plucked straight out of the schwartzwald. For three euros fifty I had a delicious breakfast consisting of Greek yogurt, a banana and a massive mug of coffee.

Looking out of the window across the street I noticed several little houses dug into the small hillside. On closer inspection it seemed that we had walked into Tolkien's Shire as the small dwellings appeared to be Hobbit holes complete with grass roofs with chimneys poking out. Apparently these houses are actually used for storing food and wine although I noticed that at least one of them had a television aerial.

We arrived at Shahagun by 11:30 am and booked into the municipal Albergue which was located in a church. All three of us were suffering from various muscle strains in our legs so we took some time to rest and recuperate. A little later we went exploring the town and discovered a bar that sold cold beer and hamburgers. We were in heaven and devoured them with gusto. What a fantastic way to end to the day!